Monday, August 29, 2005

The Bride Of Frankenstein

Time to make the last of the cabinets for the kitchen. It will consist of 4 cabinets and a countertop. There will be two cabinets on the wall, 2 cabinets on the floor, and a counter top that spans the 2 floor cabinets. One of the floor cabinets will hide a dishwasher and there will be a sink in center of the counter.

I’m going to use two salvaged, raised paneled doors for the cabinets on the wall. The doors each had a slightly rusty – but still working perfectly – Victorian cabinet latch on them. I removed the latches today and on the back it said, “Patent June 10th 1890”. They don’t make ‘em like that anymore. The rest of the cabinets will be made out of salvage redwood I got from the 2 story addition I removed last fall. First project: The wall cabinets.

One of 2 garages with salvage lumber
It used to be much more full. I’ve used a lot

Tongue & Groove Bevel Board

The tongue and groove bevel board is very similar to bead board. It has a bevel at each side just like bead board, but there is no bead. These boards made up the ceiling of one of the rental kitchens in the 1920s addition. These will make up the sides of the cabinets. The wall cabinets are going to be about 5-feet tall so I can get the crown molding above the corner blocks. I have to cut about 3-feet off each piece. This works well because all pieces have a little damage that I can work around.

1X6 Redwood Flooring

Both the addition and the house have 1X6 T&G redwood flooring. The finish face of the house flooring is 5.75 inches. The finish face of the addition flooring is only 5.5-inches. Grrrr. I was hoping to use the addition flooring for repairs to the house floor but it is a ¼-inch too narrow. I’m going to use it for the backs of all cabinets. These are a few scraps. It will look much better once it’s cleaned up.

Back Side Planed

Originally the back side was never meant to be seen so it was rough cut lumber. Now, the back side will be the inside of the cabinets. Here is it cut to 53-inches. I ran them through the planer and took off about 1/16th of an inch to clean it up.

Front Side Planed

I then lowered the planer 1/32nd of an inch and planed the painted side. It acts as a paint shaver but I’m sure it ruins the blades in the planer. They were pretty much shot, and ready to be replaced anyway, so I’m not worried about it. A lot less paint to strip.


Nick said...

I used my planer to test-strip a few of our fir floor boards. The boards looked great coming out, but as you say, the blades got dull fast. Also, my planer had a hard time feeding these boards through - the rollers seemed to slip on the varnish finish.

In the end, I'm just going to reinstall the floor and have a professional sand the old finish off.

Greg said...

The rollers slipped a bit on me as well when I was running the painted side thorugh. I had to push a few of them through.

Scott in Washington said...
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Scott in Washington said...

I hesitate to ask what may be a dumb question, but can you sharpen circular saw blades? Can I get a tool similar to the one I use to sharpen my chainsaw blade with for the quickly dulling blade on my chopsaw?